Print-quality dots, on any photo.

No. The dot pattern is rendered to a canvas in your browser. Your photo never touches our servers — we don't run an image pipeline at all.

Real halftone printing breaks an image into a grid of dots whose size encodes brightness — bigger dots in dark areas, smaller dots in light areas. We do exactly that: sample the photo on a grid, compute average brightness per cell, draw a dot whose radius is proportional to darkness. Printers also tilt the grid so it stops reading as a grid, which is what the screen-angle buttons do; 45° is the standard for a single ink.

All three use the same dot algorithm — they just change the foreground (dot color) and background (paper color). Classic is pure black on white. Paper is ink on cream — softer, scrapbook-friendly. Riso variants use the saturated single-channel inks of risograph printing.

Bigger spacing (15-25px), bigger dot size (130-160%), and moderate contrast (90-100%). Pick Classic for true comic, Paper for muted comic, Riso Red for pop-art warmth.

Drag the contrast slider. Lower contrast (60-80%) brings out shadow detail and softens the look. Higher contrast (140%+) crushes mid-tones and gives a hard, posterized feel. The invert toggle flips dark and light areas — useful for white-on-black darkroom feels.

Yes, and the dot count does not change with the photo's size. The pitch slider sets how many dots span the frame — read off the count under the preview — and every render divides its own width by that number. A 6000×4000 photo and a 1200×800 one get the same screen; the big one just gets bigger dots. The source is resampled to grid resolution before any dots are drawn, so cost tracks the grid, not the megapixels.